Leaving today.

*sigh*

Goodbye Svens, I will miss you. Goodbye Sheraton Stockholm, you've been a nice home away from home. Goodbye Cafe, I will miss your delicious quiche each morning. Goodbye bike lanes and alternative modes of transportation, you aren't overrated, I promise you. Wish I could see you in Indy. Goodbye merchants of Stockholm, I'm sure you won't have the profit margins you've had after I leave. Goodbye Oscar, you cute little 19 year old bartender you.

See you soon .... Next summer?

My final day in Stockholm (for now)

I must admit right away that I am a dirty old woman. 'Dirty old woman?', you say. Yes, that's me, a dirty old woman.

The bartender in the hotel is named Oscar. He is all of 19 years old. Hot Hot Hot.

Dirty old woman, me.

Anyhoo, today was the last full day in Stockholm. We take off on a plane at 1:00 tomorrow (approximately 7 a.m. for you folks in Indy), and return to Indy at about midnight tomorrow night. Yes, I will be dragging like none other.

I will say I have purchased a ridiculous amount of stuff here in Sweden but have enjoyed each and every minute.

Today was supposed to be a palace tour and tour of city hall, but instead we toured Sodermalm, the southern part of Stockholm where many immigrants to the U.S. came from and likely our relatives. It was known as a poorer, working-class area and my family was just that. We did get to see some pretty interesting sights and really hiked our way through the city. It was a good day. I purchased a few more things, as I am not sure that Sweden has fully taken advantage of my dollars yet ;) (kidding, kidding, I have spent plenty here, but enjoyed every last moment)

Anyhoo, I head back tomorrow and will spend Sunday in bed and doing laundry. I'll be back to my (semi-) normal self on Monday.

See you all next week or shortly thereafter. Sister and I are headed north to La Porte in the beginning of August for a visit. Jay: perhaps we can see you, Jen and Sharkboy while we are there? Scully, you are welcome to stay at my house anytime girlfriend. Mean Girls, I am sure each one of you want me to send you a Sven. The problem is choosing. How about I import all the men here to there? ;)

What a city ...

I admit it, I don't want to leave. I am ready to take up bartending, serving ice cream or just bussing tables to live here. It is spectacular. So clean, so nice, so pleasant. Bikes everywhere and walking is more than common, it is a way of life. Most people here have beautiful complexions, gorgeous bodies (lots of exercise) and seem happy with their way of life.

I know in Indy, bike lanes are infrequent at best. Here, the cars have fewer places to go than bikes and pedestrians. Most streets are a max of two lanes in each direction with a full lane on each side, divided in two, for bikes and pedestrians. It seems to work well here, with apparently 1/3 of Stockholm residents owning a bike. I can tell you by looking at the calves of people who live here, they are in shape. It is amazing. I only wish that Indy would develop a healthy understanding of what it takes to make it a happier, healthier city rather than embracing the sprawl that is so overwhelming.

The focus here, aside from general health, appears to be the home. After witnessing all the beauty that is here, I can fully appreciate the need to thin the herd of stuff at home for a more sparse lifestyle. For example, at IKEA here in Stockholm, I saw a kitchen in a cabinet ... literally an armoire with a sink, two burner stove and space above and below for dishes. Everything here has a purpose and function, while decorative pieces are essential to their living as well. I saw a great deal of armoires at Skansen which were decorative on the outside, while fully functional on the inside. Lovely, really. I'm sure I've purchased more than my fair share of goodies, but holy hell, some things are just ridiculously cheap here.

Shopped the morning away then back to the hotel for a quick nap. Bought jewelry, postcards for framing and other nonsense. So far have shopped my ass off and then some. Sister and Mom took off to shop and wander, then I woke up about an hour later and took off for Gamla Stan again. Managed to find a lovely little jewelry shop that was more than happy to relieve me of some krona (the Swedish dollar). My My what fun!!!

After the jewelry shop I went to an Irish pub, O'Connells, where I took in some Swedish beer. Very tasty. The bartender was English and very tasty himself ... apparently moved here for a Swedish girl and has lived here 5.5 years. He said the tax rate is between 39-55%. Doesn't seem that different to me after the spanking I took from the IRS earlier this year.

Now soon off to dinner with Sister. Mom is done. She had a hot dog at a local hotdog stand (they are EVERYWHERE) and is ready to get in her jammies for the night. Tomorrow is our last full day here. I am so depressed about that I can hardly speak. Again, bartending in Stockholm. Doesn't sound like such a bad gig, really.

Walked all over and then some

Good morning!

We started our day at a lovely cafe in Gamla Stan -- with fresh quiche, salad and bread for me and Mom and Sister had pastries. I should mention here that the Swedes are very fond of their pastries and nearly every cafe has a heaping display of gorgeous pastries and goodies. I've not taken part in them too much as I've always been more hungry than a pastry can fill, but the bites I've had of Mom and Sister's have been spectacular.

Yesterday's quiche for me was salmon and spinach -- spectacular:) The bread served with it was a hearty whole grain variety and very dark in color. I fell in love with it and will beg the cafe to give me the recipe as it was unbelievably good.

We've eaten well here each day, with plenty of fresh vegetables and ingredients. Nothing here is really fried and most everything we get is served with a salad. I ate salad at all three meals yesterday.

After breakfast we went to the ferry boat for a hop-on, hop-off excursion to Djurgarten, an island that is part of Stockholm which used to be the King's official hunting grounds. It was opened to the public in the late 1800s and since that time, it has served as both a garden/park area and home to a number of museums. We went to two yesterday.

The first was the museum of the warship Vasa. It was built between 1683-1686 and on its maiden voyage it sank about 3000 meters from where it was built into the cold waters of the Baltic. The king at the time was so humiliated he ordered everyone to forget about it and it became the stuff of legend. In 1961, an explorer was determined to find it and did, then followed a slow hauling of the ship up from the depths. Yes, about 85% of the original ship was there and it was slowly hauled to shore where it was then put into a dry dock and restored.

It is immense and would have housed about 300 navy men when it was fully staffed. The museum is wonderful with lots of artifacts and other things that they dredged up when it was hauled up from the sea floor. Fabulous.

Next was Skansen, an open air museum with buildings from all around Sweden. The buildings were representative of all of Sweden, with post offices, lodges, farmhouses and churches. For those of you that have been to Amish Acres in your younger days, it is kind of like that but with less kitche. It was quite beautiful and lovely and even had a zoo of sorts. There were bears (with cubs!), reindeer, elk, seals ... all the animals one would find in Sweden.

After we were finished, we walked back to the ferry and relaxed as it took on stops at several islands in Stockholm. By this time we were absolutely beat and took a short nap back at the hotel for an hour before returning back out for dinner. We went back to the English pub, Pickwick's, and I had the herring/onion/potato dish again and throughly enjoyed it.

Today is an open top bus tour, tour of city hall and getting information on our day tomorrow. I believe we will take a ferry out to Birka, the oldest Viking settlement in Lake Malaren.

Don't want to come back, it is far too lovely here. Weather in the 70s with 50s at night, 20% humidity and glorious, wonderful people. I cannot imagine a lovelier vacation.

A Trip to the World's Largest IKEA

Holy crap, batman, this place was big. For those of you that have visited an IKEA before, it is 2.5 times the size of the Schaumberg location and easily 5 times the size of the Cincy location. It was immense, it was tiring, it was AMAZING.

If you know me, you probably know I have a long-standing love affair with IKEA. Going to the 'home' store of IKEA was as much a part of this trip as the history trips we've taken so far.

IKEA offers a free shuttle service from downtown Stockholm to its location in the 'burbs. This bus, probably a 45-50 seater, was full on the way there and on the way back. I did buy a few things for a gift for my cousin (who also loves IKEA) but mostly window shopped. Somehow it isn't quite the same without the knowledge you can haul home most anything your little heart desires. Although, interestingly enough, with our lunch order you could have water, pop or beer, yes beer, as your beverage. Have I mentioned I love this country?

After IKEA, we came back to the hotel and napped (or at least I did, Sister did but Mom did not). After the nap we went on our nightly sojourn to shop and find dinner. We ended up in a little outside cafe in Kungstragarten (the King's Garden), a big park in Stockholm. Originally the park served as the King's vegetable garden (and what a garden it must have been!!!), then it was turned into a park for all to enjoy. At the Huset we had baked sandwiches, Mom and Sister had tomato, cheese and pesto, while I had shrimp, cheese and some cream sauce. I had hoped to order a salmon sandwich they had here but unfortunately, they were sold out. We had beers to drink, of course. Following dinner we wandered around the garden then out on the street towards Skepsholmen, the site of the Stockholm Jazz Festival which starts tomorrow. On our way we had to stop for ice cream (known as 'glass' or 'glace' here) so we would fit in with the natives. I am certain that the per capita consumption of ice cream must be extraordinary here as everywhere I look there are ice cream cones and people enjoying them.

Okay, off to Skansen, the outdoor history museum. More tomorrow.

Oh yes ... and groupies hang out at my hotel.

Forgot to mention this morning ...

Iron Maiden is staying at my hotel. Apparently they have a show tomorrow night here in Stockholm and the past two days I have sighted several members (their picture was in a tourist guidebook or I would not know them by sight) and the groupies (mostly teenage/early 20s young men) have been hanging outside the hotel, awaiting autographs. It has been quite a sight to behold.

When Mom asked me how I knew it was Iron Maiden staying at our hotel, my reply was: Because all the groupies (Every One) have an Iron Maiden t-shirt on.

Tomorrow also starts the Stockholm Jazz Festival and one of the headliners is Mary J. Blige. I would totally be her groupie. Mary J Rocks.

Out to the archipelago

Yesterday we started our day with a ferry ride out into the archipelago of Stockholm. I believe I mentioned that there are approximately 24,000 islands off of Stockholm. We visited one. 23,999 to go.

The ferry ride was part of a tour package called "Good morning Stockholm." The idea of the tour was to give an overview of Stockholm and to allow us to visit one of the islands that is open for visitors in the archipelago. Many, if not most, are owned by the State and this particular island we visited is owned by the King. It wasn't all that big, but had craftsmen on the island selling their wares (glass, wood, textiles, ceramics, wool). I purchased some pottery and after a satisfying lunch, we headed back aboard a different ferry. When we left, the island was beginning to fill with tourists, so we were glad to have had a few minutes of quiet there.

After our return, we walked around the city, visiting NK (a department store not unlike Nordstrom) and trying valiantly to catch the bus to IKEA. Unfortunately, we missed it, so we headed back to the hotel for a nap. Much needed.

After the nap, we wandered out for dinner, then a little bit more shopping. We went to an English pub (Piccadillys) and I had a traditional Swedish meal of herring, potatoes and onions in a cream sauce with Wasa bread and cheese. Man oh man, it was good. The food on this trip has been very satisfying and delicious. The pub was nice because the waitstaff was English and thus it made ordering food easy and pleasant.

I must say, although I speak precious little Swedish, it has been easy to get around and easy to order/buy/get things, as most Swedes speak at least a little English if not fully bilingual.

Other interesting observations: so much of the music played here is American in origin. The latest top 40 or hip/hop is played in nearly every shop and without remembering that you are actually in a foreign country, it could feel like you are in the U.S.

Mom and I are still mistaken for Swedes, while Sister remains the one that most Swedes look at and assume 'American.' It has gotten almost comical at times and yesterday I told Sister that perhaps we could visit her 'people' in Tennesee (some of Dad's family is from there) and she could then look like she belonged. Needless to say, Mom laughed until she cried. It was quite a moment.

Okay, off to shop and eat. More tomorrow.

Day 2: Stockholm

First, I must say that the most beautiful people in the world live here. Literally, the streets are teeming with gorgeous men, all of whom I've named 'Sven.' :)

Yesterday was a walking tour day, mostly of Gamla Stan (old town). We walked to the Sweden House, a tourist information center, on one of the main shopping districts just a few blocks from our hotel. It was there I purchased a map of Stockholm (we had two before, but both were 'general' maps, not nearly as comprehensive as we needed them) and we stopped at a public art display of 'Signspotting.' Signspotting is a collection of humorous signs from around the world all on display for your amusement. I laughed and laughed. I've taken plenty of pictures so you'll see them here when I return.

Also at the tourist center, I found out how to get to the world's largest IKEA. Happiness and joy are mine.

From the Signspotting exhibit, we wandered down a street towards the Royal Castle. Yes, Sweden still has royalty but much like the British royalty, they are ceremonial. Walked around the castle to the changing of the guard ceremony. Only about 10,000,000 tourists, as to be expected, were there but we did get a good view. Lots of pictures of the pagentry were taken.

From the castle we wandered out to find lunch at a local cafe. Meal prices here vary from middle to expensive, depending on time of day. Lunch seems to be the most economical, with salad, bread, drink and entree for about $12. Dinner last night, for example, was about $100 for the three of us, and each had an entree with one beer.

After lunch we wandered further into Gamla Stan to the waterfront, where we found some of the ferry tours that we may take today. Gamla Stan is large, with many streets, all of which are interesting in their own right. Many buildings have foundations from the 13th or 14th century and we went into a German Lutheran church in the heart of Gamla Stan yesterday that was built in 1771. To say it was ornate is to insult the place, as every single wall, ceiling panel, pew and railing was hand carved or painted with elaborate decorations. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed in there, so I have no record of the place except in my memory.

Today is an early morning ferry tour of Stockholm then perhaps shopping this afternoon. It has been absolutely lovely to be here, the weather is perfect, in the 70s during the day and 50s at night. Very low humidity, although the cobblestone streets in Gamla Stan make for a very hearty hike.

Other observations: the national dessert here appears to be ice cream. Everywhere, every afternoon, we see nearly everyone eating an ice cream cone. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon, IMHO, but I can see that this hiking will go for naught as I have enjoyed my share of ice cream as well.

Saturday night, as we walked looking for the restaurant out of the guidebook, the streets were fairly silent, with only the laughter and clinking of glasses from the apartments above penetrating the quiet. To say there are few cars here is almost unfair, there are cars, but mainly there are people in trains, on bikes or on foot. There are designated bike lanes that are protected from the cars and the walking areas are for walking only. It's not at all like Indy where walkers, bikers and cars compete for the same space.

Okay, off to the ferry ...

Where everybody thinks I'm Swedish

Hello from Stockholm!! It is about 8:45 a.m. here on Sunday, approximately 2:45 a.m. for you back in Indy.

After taking a high-speed train from the airport to Stockholm City, we walked a few blocks to our hotel, luggage in tow. It was fairly commonplace to see people hauling their stuff the few blocks and unlike dear Maestro, there were no parades, limited bus service or hauling baggage 5+ miles to get to our destination.

We checked in but our room wasn't available so we stowed our luggage and headed to Gamala Stan (Old Town) in Stockholm. It was right across the bridge from our hotel and is known as a shopping place for locals and tourists alike, although I truly felt it to be more 'touristy' than local. One lane streets, built in the 1300s-1400s, with tall buildings on each side. I am unable to upload photos here but trust that there will be a photo upload when I get home.

On our way to Gamala Stan, we walked through the courtyard of the Rikstag (Sweden's parliament) and a rather large gathering of Hare Krishnas, all of whom seemed to be protesting the treatment of the Chinese people.

Following our tour through Gamala Stan, we returned to the hotel, checked in and immediately began a rotation of showers/naps. We got up around 8 p.m. and headed back out, in search of food.

The hotel obviously has a restaurant, but the idea was we'd use our guidebook to find a local establishment and eat there. Great idea in theory, in practice, a hike to nowhere.

We walked probably a couple miles to the site of this restaurant only to find that it had apparently closed down some time before. So we meandered back down the street next to the water and walked 3/4 the way back to the site of the restaurant we had spotted earlier. We ended up at the restaurant across the street, a Greek place, that is similar to Santorini's in style, price and overall deliciousness :) We were given menus in Swedish initially and after explaining that we needed English menus, our waitress was quite floored.

That is to say ... apparently I look Swedish. Looking around here, it is like looking in a mirror with the light eyes and pale skin ... the difference being there aren't a whole lot of Swedish brunettes I've seen so far, but thanks to Evolution, I have lighter hair than I might otherwise. Thus, I fit in perfectly. Same for Mom. Sister, however, looks like the anomaly. They (the natives) all assume she is the foreigner and perhaps Mom and I are her guides.

Oh yes, and Mom and I have been mistaken for sisters here too. I do resemble my Mom a great deal and I can see that but I'd like to think the 20 years difference in our ages would eliminate the feeling that we are sisters, but so be it.

The Greek place was lovely and some pretty interesting customs to be noted. You cannot drink outside on a patio past 10 p.m. Yes, we had to gather our beers (a 'dark' beer the waitress told us, although it was far more lager than anything) and head inside at 10 p.m.

We walked back and there were many, many people on the streets. Far more bicycles and people than cars. There are many bicycle rental places in the city and we may take advantage of that for a day.

Today should be all about tours. I believe we'll take a bus tour and a water taxi tour. For those that don't know, Stockholm is a city of islands and the easiest way to see quite a few of them is by water taxi. Apparently there are over 25,000 islands surrounding Stockholm. Yes, 25,000, not all inhabited, not all big enough to be so.

Oh, and as a very interesting note, the 'hello' here is 'hej' pronounced 'hey.' It feels rather informal to my ears to say 'hey' to people. I am beginning to pick up various words, much easier than any of the tapes I'd listened to before arriving. Language in action is key for me.

Be well, be safe. All is good here. Having a ridiculous amount of fun:)